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Andersen Geneve Jour et Nuit First Edition Jumping Hours
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Andersen Geneve Grand Jour et Nuit First Edition Jumping Hours
If you love modern Independents, then you probably owe a debt of gratitude to Sven Andersen. Known as one of the Godfathers of Independent watchmaking, he branched out on his own all the way back in 1980 with the founding of Andersen Geneve, and along with Vincent Calabrese, formed the AHCI in 1985. These truly were the first of the Independents as we know them today.
If you're unfamiliar with the AHCI, or Academie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendents/Horological Academy of Independent Creators to give it it's full name, this is a group of watchmakers dedicated to keeping traditional watchmaking craftsmanship alive in the era of big brands, and it's members inlcude Journe, Hajime Asaoka, Felix Baumgartner, Phillipe Dufour, Konstantin Chaykin, Vianney Halter, Kari Voutilainen...the list goes on and on. These are the who's who of Independent watchmaking, and Andersen and Calabrese created it. So to call them important to independent watchmaking is a supreme understatement.
Andersen Geneve's work is as varied as it is important, and with the nickname 'watchmaker of the impossible', you can be guaranteed anything that has had Sven Andersen's touch or watchful eye over it is going to be fairly special. And this watch is certainly special. Originally created as a one-off for important collector Walter Hasberger in 1995, Cartier recognised how special it was and commissioned Andersen to create the Pasha Jour et Nuit, before Andersen put them into a very limited production themselves, first as a pre-series and then as a 20 piece run of the Grand Jour et Nuit, which is the watch we have here.
Oversized at the time, but now very contemporary at 43mm, it utilises a handmade case by the late, great Jean-Pierre Hagmann and features the signature JHP hallmark seen between the lugs. Though the dial is what draws the most attention, this case should not be overlooked. It's extremely thin, with a recessed mid-case which is brushed that adds to the impression of thinness on the wrist, and could only have been done by the hands of a master craftsman.
The design of the dial is totally unique, and unlike anything else. Featuring a 24-hr arc split into day and night, day across the top row and night on the lower, the unequal length single hand jumps from hour to hour, with the handcrafted sun indicating daytime hours, and the moon night time. The dial at 6 is not sub-seconds, but minutes, and upon completing a full 60 minute cycle it will snap the hour/minute hand to the next hour. This doesn't glide, it jumps, hence is a jump hour.
The hour track is stunning, and features black Breguet numerals inside it's applied 18k gold surface. The base of the dial is hand-crafted Guilloche in a silver-opaline, and the blued main hand with it's handcrafted moon and sun in 18k gold. It's a throwback to old-world craftsmanship, and the quality is superb.
Powering it is a modified and beautifully decorated 1960's-era Frédéric Piguet 15-ligne manual wind movement. The Côtes de Gèneve across all bridges look amazingly deep and is perfectly aligned, with very crisp bevels, and superbly executed perlage on the base plate. It definitely rewards taking a loupe to, but even to the naked eye you can see the quality and attention to detail, such is the advantage of such a large movement.
It is currently mounted to a beautiful HANDDN handmade strap in deep blue, and also comes with the Andersen Geneve 'gator strap in burgundy, with the original deployant clasp. These are again very unique, with it being stitched into the strap and uses a hook system to secure it. It's a lovely thing in itself.
This particular example would date from around 2000 and presents in excellent neo-vintage condition. The case is in superb condition, with light scratches and scuffs from it's 25 or so years, but no deep dings/nicks etc. Hallmarks are very crisp.
The dial shows a very small circular crack on its outer edge near where 8 would be, and at the very edge of the outer dial near 12, the latter which can only be seen under a loupe. There's some minor tarnish to the applied 18k gold, and it's aged to a warm hue.
Specific service history is unknown. Currently running very well at high 280+ degrees of amplitude and timekeeping around +19 seconds a day face up on the timegrapher.
The strap appears to be original to the watch, and shows some wear, but still plenty of life left. The buckle shows desk dive marks. Will suit up to a 7.4in wrist.
Comes as watch-only, no accessories.
A phenomenal, and very rare watch from a truly important watchmaker.
Brand: Andersen Geneve
Model #: Grand Jour et Nuit
Circa: 2000
Case Material: 18k Gold
Case details: 43mm
Bracelet: Andersen geneve 'gator with Parmigiani 18k deployant buckle, HANDDN Navy Blue leather
Movement: Modified Frédéric Piguet 15-ligne manual wind movement
Dial: Silver-Opaline Guiloche
Hands: Blued
Paraphernalia: Nil
Model #: Grand Jour et Nuit
Circa: 2000
Case Material: 18k Gold
Case details: 43mm
Bracelet: Andersen geneve 'gator with Parmigiani 18k deployant buckle, HANDDN Navy Blue leather
Movement: Modified Frédéric Piguet 15-ligne manual wind movement
Dial: Silver-Opaline Guiloche
Hands: Blued
Paraphernalia: Nil
Grading: Excellent neo-vintage condition
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