Chanel Monsieur de Chanel Edition Noir Jump Hour Ceramic H5486

The Monsieur de Chanel line is perhaps one of the greatest series of watches you've never heard of. While some may be reticent to think of Chanel as a high-end watch brand, the fact is as a company they have been taking their watchmaking very seriously over the past few years, acquiring stakes in Chatelain, Kenissi, Bell and Ross, FP Journe, Romain Gauthier and now MB&F.

It's the partnership in the middle that makes the Monsieur series so special. Romain Gauthier specialises in precision mechanics by trade, and his watches showcase a unique movement architecture that are immediately identifiable, and in my opinion, absolutely beautiful. Think industrial micro-mechanic chic, if that's a thing. Chanel decided to enlist the help of Romain and his unique knack for movement and parts design to elevate their watches to a level not yet seen from the brand, and when combined with the amazing eye for detail present at high-end luxury fashion brands like Chanel, have created something truly special.

The Monsieur line debuted in 2016, showcased in 40mm precious metal cases with a unique 240 degree retrograde minute complication in combination with a jump hour, powered by the manual wind Calibre 1 with its signature circular gear train. In 2020, the line expanded from precious metals to ceramic and steel, and the Edition Noir was born.

The case measures in at 42mm, a thickness just under 11mm. The lugs are very short, so tends to wear closer to a 41mm. The central portion of the case is made of ceramic, while the case back and bezel are in steel, the former being capped by ceramic which allows for the black theme to continue but be punctuated with lovely rings of silver above and below the case band, and on the inner portion of the bezel, matching the lion motif signature Chanel crown. 

Within this case lies a lightly grained black dial, with a 240 degree retrograde minute counter punctuated with a running seconds, which sits above the masterfully integrated jump hour window. A specific font was created for this watch, and the sense of cohesion within its design is second to none. This is what the 'fashion' and jewelry brands do best, and why I'm such big fans of what Bulgari has been putting out the past decade.

The perfect execution of the dial is matched by the movement, which was constructed by an eight-person team at Chanel Horlogerie, located within the G&F Chatelain complex in La Chaux-de-Fonds, with design elements by Mr Gauthier whose atelier also constructs the wheels, shafts, pinions, drums, barrel covers and balances along with other turning parts. It's wonderful technically too, with dual barrels for a 3 day power reserve, a free sprung balance, and a delightful winding click, a key to joy of interaction with a manual wind movement in my opinion.

It's finished off with a beautiful handmade HANDDN leather strap on Chanel double deployant buckle, and the balance on the wrist with this combo is absolutely spot on.

This particular piece presents in TZ 'Near Mint' condition. The case shows no signs of wear that we can see, other than the lightest of swirlies/hairlines on the polished steel surfaces and some minor desk dive marks on the deployant. Please see images for full condition details.

All functions operating as they should, and keeping COSC time.

Comes with outer box, inner folder, instruction/warranty booklet. No warranty card, and the warranty booklet is unstamped.

Released in a limited series of 55, the Noir is the coolest Monsieur they've made, and rare as hens teeth. Don't miss your chance.

Brand: Chanel

Model #: H5486

Style: Dress

Circa: 2020

Case Material: Ceramic and Steel

Case details: 42mm

Movement: Calibre 1 Manual Wind

Dial: Black

Hands: Steel

Strap: HANDDN Leather with Chanel Deployant

Paraphernalia: Outer box, inner folder, instruction/warranty booklet. No warranty card, and the warranty booklet is unstamped

TZ Grading: Near Mint